Having had a bowl full of her favourite methi aloo and two customary paranthas, Veena Arora, Chef De Cuisine, The Spice Route at The Imperial, New Delhi, tells us how simple food is the best kind of food.
Infusing that philosophy, she presents her annual winter collection, dominated by coherent flavours, simplicity in execution and effortless presentations of some of the characteristic nuances of South East Asian fare.
As we sit to sample some of her recent creations, she puts her neck up and says, “You must try Rassam. It’s a signature and everybody here loves it.” Difficult to say no to a chef who so lovingly serves you and makes sure you take at least two helpings of everything, we nod in agreement and get ready to try the mixed seafood soup tempered with Kerala spices that are light, delicate and mild. Then presented to us sophisticatedly.
The winter menu is ruled by seafood, with fish and prawn dishes being presented in more ways than few. There is the Otak Otak Tiph (Indonesian fried fish cake), Prawn in a Sarong (Malaysian style por pia skin wrapped prawns, flavoured with lemongrass, chillies, fried crisp). Arora points out it’s best had with sweet chilli and plum sauce.
The other dishes that make an appearance on the menu are Isso Miris Temperadu (Fried prawns, with paprika powder, tomato and Worcestershire sauce, Sri-Lankan style), Pla Kung (Thai spicy prawn salad flavoured with tom yum paste), Yera Mellagu (Prawn stir fried with Kerala spices), Phanaeng Pla (Crispy fillet of pomfret served with phananeng sauce) and more. “When I joined the Spice Route 18 years ago, most guests only ordered Red and Green Thai Curry.
Over the years I’ve seen tastes evolving with greater awareness. Because people are travelling a lot more now, their demands from the South East Asian cuisine has changed and they are seen experimenting generously,” says Chef Arora.
For those of you who are wanting to try seafood other than fish and prawn, she has put together plates of Kung Nang Saparos (Lobster tossed with pineapple, flavoured with Thai oyster sauce) and Muc Xao Thap Cam (Wok-fried squid with pickled mustard, Vietnamese style). The couple of rice selections—Meen Biryani (Kerala style rice cooked with fish) and Mee Heng (Vermicelli rice noodle stir-fried with prawn and squid with Thai Sri-racha sauce) are both worth a try.
The choice in desserts is quite limited with just one option—Ice Cream Tauhu. ‘‘It’s best to try a couple of dishes at a time. Trying all of it at once will prove to be a perplexing mish mash. And if you take my suggestion, try having the Meen Biryani without raita.
North India will typically eat their rice preparations with curd but this one will taste best if had without,’’ says the chef, who was born and brought up in Thailand in a small town named Phathalung. Because of her Thai roots, it was relatively easier for her to understand the cuisine and help her guests develop a palate for bonafide Thai flavours that she has been lovingly serving up for the past 18 years at the restaurant.
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