Green mustard fields, stark landscape, a blue sky and loads of thrills, the road from Agra to Etawah was an introduction to the country’s most populated state—Uttar Pradesh. And this was the road that led to the once-dreaded Chambal valley.
No one in good old Uttar Pradesh is in a hurry. Here India lives as it lives… there are mud homes, people cooking on earthen stoves with cow dung as the fuel, camels carry the load and people ride on bicycles. Along the way, clusters of houses told us that we were crossing different villages. We stopped to pose in the middle of the mustard fields, peacocks flew away as we came near, but we discovered a real well from which the villagers drew water.
The Chambal story
This was the road within the famous Chambal valley where once upon a time dacoits ruled. The landscape is full of thorny bushes and wild berries. With time, the hills are now more like mud banks. The government, helped by nature, has turned them into rich fields.
The driver recounted tales of the famous ones—Nirbhaya Gujjar, Phoolan Devi and Paan Singh Tomar. The dacoits actually did not like to trouble the villagers much, but being an outlaw was the answer to oppression in those days. Nirbhaya Gujjar was in fact the local Robin Hood; the villagers would take his help to resolve all problems and he sympathized with them. Hearing these tales and seeing the rural habitation, I was transported to the times of Gabbar—kitne aadmi the.
The rally went over a pontoon bridge. With bated breath, we awaited our turn as only one car could cross at one time. The young ones from a nearby village cheered, police men followed in their jeeps and some on foot. Somewhere, we diverted and wound our way to the famous Shiva temple in Bateshwar. Besides being the home of Lord Shiva, it’s also the home of former Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee. Long ago, a wide Yamuna used to flow behind the temple which houses 101 shivalingas.
Now the Yamuna has narrowed, but you find many water birds there. The spectacular walk of the swans in the water was worth all the effort. Goats baahed and walked with us as we tried to capture the swans and the gulls in our cameras. A small kingfisher sat on an electrical wire.
An annual animal fare is also organized here. Going by the legend, Shiva rested under a bat or banyan tree there. And Bateshwar, the banyan lord, was born. The temple was built by Raja Badan Singh Bhadauria.
A few clicks and some cold drinks, we went ahead to the famous Jain temple in the area of Shaouripur. No one could tell us the exact time when this temple was built but it’s a quiet, serene place. It hardly gets footfall, so the silence of nature is amazing. The peace of solitude is what the tired city heart needs.
This is said to be the birthplace of the 22nd Tirthankar of Jain faith, Lord Neminath. The temple has two abodes of Lord Mahavira—one in the traditional sitting posture and other standing. The priest opened the temple doors for us and pointed out a snake’s shadow in the black stone statue of sitting Lord Mahavira. We experienced this wonder from all directions, trying to figure out whether it’s the play of sun or supernatural.
Then walked to the second abode where he showed us a conch and lotus flower in the God’s chest and navel. Birds chirped as we marveled and we could hear the rustle of the leaves.
Must-see: Chambal Safari
Ferrying people and motorcycles across Chambal river, Uttar Pradesh
It was time for our next stop. The exciting Chambal Safari, the spot at the river where we hoped to sight the shy ghariyals. We reached the shores of the river looking for ways and means to reach the ghariyals. And then came to know that only boats by the tourism department could go into the spots where the evasive ghariyals resided.
It needed permission from the state department along with a fee of Rs 1,650 for a one hour trip. A little disappointed, we walked around the bank, collected some shells and talked to the young girls tending sheep.
We watched the villagers loading their motorcycles on a long boat. A bicycle hung on the side. And a ride from one shore to another cost only Rs 10. As we were short of time, we missed this one but Rs 20 for a back and forth through the river is value for money
Resting under the peepal tree, we enjoyed a picnic of sandwiches and juice. And then it was time to head to Agra where the car rally was ending.
Reaching Chambal
Agra is accessible by road, train, bus and from there you can hire a car and also take along a guide from the tourism department to explore the beauty of this agricultural valley.
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