TRAVEL TRENDS As we drove up the picturesque tea gardens of Doars, the mountains grew dense, the forest greener and the sky a fair tinge of blue. We were approaching the land of the Thunder Dragon or Druk Yul as they call it.
The astonishing similarity with the name Vlad Dracula of Romania sent my nerves tingling with anticipation. In my mind the land of Far East opened with the deep resonance of the Buddhist gong followed by tripping tunes and Mongolian faces as seen in hundreds of movies featuring these Asian regions.
Even as I playfully reached out of the car window for a puff of cloud that strayed from the giant cirrus above, the road opened up to the giant, intricately carved Bhutan Gate. This is Druk Yul, the dragon of wealth, meaning Bhutan. The splendid mosaic of colours, intricate architecture and bold figurines left me spell bound. We had reached Phuentsholing, the commercial hub. Situated at the base of the Himalayan foothills, Phuentsholing was fascinating, home to multi-ethnic groups and the most convenient entry/exit point for Bhutan.
Initially, it was very difficult for us to find out what was so new about this land. A closer look revealed that the ground level rose from what it was a few steps back. Wood was widely used. Shops overlooking the main road pampered you with a variety of wares starting from statues of the laughing Buddha, coloured masks and faces, the pilgrim’s prayer wheel, silverware, jewellery, wooden artifacts and Bhutanese dresses.
Then the visions of the idiot box came alive as we reached the temple representing the heaven of Guru Rinpoche, called the Zangtho Pelri Lhakhang. On the ground floor there are statues of eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche and paintings on Buddha’s life. The deep gongs, the tripping wind, the giant coloured flags and the echoing silence of the forest gave an otherworldly feeling that can only be experienced in the whispers of the leaves and the spirit within.
The next day after having breakfast and collecting the permit from Phuentsholing, we started for Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan — the only capital in the world which does not have traffic lights.
As we climbed the mountain further, the valley gave way to a dramatic view. The air gradually became thinner and cooler. As we approached Thimphu, series of buildings donning the same structure, uncluttered and discrete, displaying an architectural uniformity appeared out of nowhere. The canvas displayed the experience of the old and the adventure of the new.
Dominating the town of Thimphu is the Tashichho Dzong (Fortress of the Glorious Religion), first built in 1661. Except the central keep, the entire structure was rebuilt in 1961-62 and now houses the main government departments and summer headquarters of the Central Monastic Body. The other attraction is Simtokha Dzong, erected in 1627, housing the Rigney School for Dzongkha and monastic studies.
The next morning, we drove to the Jigme Dorji National Park and from there to the Cheri Gompa (monastery). Crossing the cantilever bridge across Wangchu River, we reached the monastery. Zhabdrung Nawang Namgyel (first ruler of Bhutan) had built this monastery in 1620 and established its first order of monks here. A silver chorten inside the monastery is said to hold the ashes of the Zhabdrung’s father.
Our next destination was Paro, serene and stunning, located at about 6500 ft above sea level, producing bulk of the locally famous red rice on its terraced fields. It is home to many of Bhutan’s oldest temples and monasteries, National Museum and an airport too.
Perched on the side of a cliff 900m above the Paro valley floor, Taktshang Lhakhang or the Tiger’s Nest, holds an enchanting tale to its name. It is said that Guru Rinpoche arrived here on the back of a tigress and meditated at this monastery.
Visiting Bhutan has been an experience — a total surprise package, marked with innocuous, saintly, tunic-clad men, nurturing their culture and glory. A country where buying cigarettes is illegal, the rice is red and where chillies are an entire dish. The ‘last Shangri La’ left me with a daunting memory of the charm and magic of one of the world’s most enigmatic countries.
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