'Osmania Biscuit'— A Tough Cookie Of Hyderabadi Indeed!

By Syed Osman | Hyderabad

HYDERABADI FLAVOUR Osmania Buiscuit, a common cookie in Hyderabad served with tea at all times. It has a historical significance since Asaf Jahis. The buiscuit now tagged the geographical indication. 

Haleem is once again in the news with makers of this popular delicacy, after having succeeded in obtaining the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for marketing their product as ‘Hyderabadi Haleem’ within the country, are now pursuing the coveted appendage at the international level. The move is expected to give a major boost to the already robust market which is currently pegged at over Rs 100 crore. 
The euphoria generated by this success had understandably triggered a spate of similar bids although the claim to a protected geographical indication has inexplicably eluded the world renowned Hyderabadi Biryani for years now. With enthusiasts confident of achieving GI tags for even such familiar fare as the Luqmi (a savory puff with minced meat stuffing; traditionally served as a starter at banquets in Hyderabad) and Nankhatai (a rich butter cookie), one wonders as to the reasoning behind this desire for exclusivity. For though the Luqmi in its Hyderabadi avatar may pass muster as unique to the region, the Nankhatai most certainly cannot. In all honesty, the pathetic looking ‘biskit’ proffered in city cafes is barely edible and far superior versions are served elsewhere in India. 
    

If at all a cookie from Hyderabad deserves the GI tag then it most certainly is the Osmania Biscuit which, being the most popular nibble of the masses has evolved into a unique food item with a history of its own. Its creation is credited to dietitians of the Osmania General Hospital who came up with this high energy solution to supplement the diet of patients. The unique taste of the Osmania appealed to the Hyderabadi palate and within no time attendants and visitors were caught gobbling it down with relish much to the chagrin of the patients and doctors. Little wonder that soon biscuits pilfered from the hospital pantry were being sold at cafes in the vicinity of Osmania General and with increasing popularity city bakers geared up to meet the demand. Ever since, successfully dunking an Osmania Biscuit in a cup of Irani chai has been the ultimate test of provenance for all who claim to be Hyderabadis. 
    
Competing for distinction with the Osmania Biscuit is the Dam ka Roat, a large crisp semolina biscuit which comes into prominence annually during Muharram when the people of Hyderabad religiously partake of this delicacy. This year the mad scramble to get hold of a pack of Roat on the 10th of Muharram resulted in serpentine queues and general mayhem on the busy Nampally Dargah road where the bakery selling the best is located. 
    
It is essential that activists and epicureans of the city rework their strategy for obtaining GI tagging for food stuffs unique to Hyderabad. In the past few decades itself, one has witnessed the disappearance of many a hoary culinary tradition that had been unique to the city. Foremost among them is the famed Kulcha, a baked flatbread which used to be a staple at the Hyderabadi table. 

Its identification with Hyderabad was so strong that the masses swore it was the kulcha and not the moon, symbolizing the first Nizam’s name Qamaruddin, which appeared on the Asaf Jahi flag. Unfortunately this defining constituent of Hyderabadi cuisine has all but vanished with Qadeem Naan Munshi at Purani Haveli being possibly the only firm that can cater to one’s requirement, that too on order. Similar is the case of the Puran Puri, a rich ghee encrusted halva cake which has recently been taken off the menu by its most famous producer, John & Co. of Abids. 
    
The need to protect trade names or trade marks, including those which identity edible products to a certain region, has been the endeavor of governments for the past two centuries. However the resultant monopoly, providing undue protection to select producers, is justified only when there is credible claim to uniqueness based on parameters defining origin, association or quality. Interestingly this protection is rendered void due to change in geographical location of production and that results in an inability to tag the mouth watering Ajmeri Khalakhand available at Satyanarayana Mithai Bhandar on the Afzalgunj road. Ask any Hyderabadi worth his salt and he will vociferously assert that such a delightful treat to the palate is possible nowhere else in the world - including Ajmer itself. 
    
GI tagging goes much beyond food stuffs with numerous handicrafts, textiles and industrial products earning the coveted label. With the fate of Hyderabad still in doldrums despite the impending formation of Telangana state, many a citizen wonders as to what parameters will determine their status as Hyderabadis, especially with all and sundry claiming domicile status. With Mulki rules confined to the deepest recesses of memory and no tangible criteria in the offing, one can but suggest nothing other than the dunking test as the most practical method of settling claims to citizenship – successfully dunk an Osmania biscuit without losing a crumb and be declared a quintessential Hyderabadi!