By Matiha Al Ahssan | Muscat
Adam is of immense heritage importance for the country and represents a slice of the history of Oman. Keeping the old as good as gold is an art Oman is learning to master. And a visit to Adam, 295 km from Muscat beyond Nizwa, testifies to this fact. Adam is an example of the growing awareness of heritage in the country.
Adam is neighbored in the north by the Wilayats of Manah and Bahla and in the south by the Wilayats of Mahut and Haima a part of the Wusta region. In the southwest the Wilayat of lbri, which is a part of the Dhahira, and in the east, the Wilayat of Mudaibi, which is a part of the Sharqiyah.
Some say that the name Adam comes from “Adim Al Ardth” (the surface of the earth), while others say it means “the fertile land which is located in the middle of the desert.”
Our host, the knowledgeable Ali Al Mahrouqui, an archaeologist with the Ministry of Heritage and Culture, takes us first to Harrat Al Jami, which according to him “is undoubtedly the most magnificent specimen of Omani traditional architecture.”
Harrat Al Jami, with its two-storied mud buildings, takes you down the corridors of time. Mahrouqui says, “The bedrooms, living rooms and kitchen were on the upper floors, and some of the larger dwellings, such as Imam Ahmed bin Said Busaidi’s residence featured a downstairs facility which enabled water to be drawn from wells, in addition to wash basins and toilets.”
The strong walls of the house of Imam Ahmed bin Said Busaidi (1744-1783), the founder of the Al Busaidi dynasty, stand as mute testimony to his steadfastness and resolve to unite the country. The current ruler, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, is the seventh descendant of Imam Ahmed bin Said Al Busaidi.
Houses in the Harrat Jami, which are now under restoration by the Ministry of Heritage, were built wall to wall giving complete privacy to the inhabitants. Thus, windows were found only on the side facing the street.
Just outside the main gate to the mud neighborhood is a mosque which has already been restored; no prayers are offered here. The mosque has an elegant mihrab (niche where the Imam leads the prayers) and arches. Ali Mahrouqui is currently doing a research on the mihrabs of Omani masjids.
The Harrat Al Jami is uninhabited now as the people there had begun to leave the place some 30 years ago. We stumbled across an old man who had left his house in Harrat Al Jami and stays in Adam central. Talking about his days in the mud neighborhood, he observed, “Life then was very peaceful and there was bonhomie in the enclosure. Times have changed and there is no comparison with how we lived then and how we live today.”
In Adam, we had the opportunity to meet the Sheikh of Adam. He said that Adam has benefited greatly from the March of Prosperity initiated by Sultan Qaboos bin Said. He observed, “Adam has now almost everything, right from educational facilities to civic amenities.” He also said that Adam played a significant role in uniting the country.” At the end of our conversation, as is the tradition elsewhere in Arabia, we were not allowed to leave without being served a delicious lunch of traditional lamb.
There is another mosque in the Wilayat of Adam which is enshrouded in mystery. The people of the region differ as to when it was built, or by who, or how, as there is no trace of building material. The mosque is aptly named “Bani Ruhu” i.e. the mosque which built itself which is an enigma in itself.
Traces of the old Oman can still be found in Adam, at least in the summer. Barastis, temporary houses made of palm fronds, a regular feature in days gone by, are seen at several places in Adam. Ali Maqhrouqi informs us, “During summer people from places like Duqm come to Adam for date cultivation and stay in these barastis.”
The laidback town has a watchtower, an old Holy Qur’an school and a fort which served as a court and wali’s (custodian) office in the days of yore.
Adam is endowed with lush date orchards and Ali Mahrouqi made sure to give us a tour of these plantations.
There are three springs in the Wilayat of Adam. Two of them, Rakhim and Jandali are located at the foot of Jabal (mountain) Salakh, and Nama is located on the banks of Wadi (valley) Halfain. There are four active aflaj (irrigation system which catches water from the mountains) crisscrossing Adam.
The traditional industries and occupations are working with gold and silver, iron works, weaving palm leaves, wool weaving, bee keeping and making Omani sweets.
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